Sunday, July 25, 2010

Hot Springs Cove





17 - 20 July 2010

After having a thoroughly enjoyable stay in Tahsis, we ventured out to the mouth of the sound to Friendly Cove. It was a peaceful morning as we cruised the passage heading back towards the Pacific Ocean. Friendly Cove was reported to have good anchorage. We arrived in the late morning and anchored. Tilly and I rowed the tender to shore. There was a nice beach to walk, trails around the head, and an old Catholic Church and native Indian graveyard to explore. the tide was changing, so I didn't want to leave our dinghy unattended on the beach for too long, so we headed back to the Sea Crest after an hour and a half or so. Dave had listened to the weather report while we were gone and the winds were to pick up in the evening. We were just a half days run from Hot Springs Cove, with better protection from the elements there. We pulled up anchor and headed out into the bay.

We traveled in good company. There were several pods of whales that we sited on our way to the Hot Springs. They put on a good show for us.

Hot Springs Cove has been a special treat for boaters. Before the intoduction of modern tranportation to the area (water taxis and sea planes from the city of Tofino, BC) the only folks who took of the pleasures of the baths were local villagers and traveling mariners. Regardless of its current "tourist" status, the Hot Springs are a remarkably pristine and sacred spot. We made several trips in to luxuriate in the waters. The hike is approximately 2 km of boardwalk - with quite a few steps. The trail traverses an old growth forest, and the trees are as much a joy to take in as the baths themselves.


As one enters the Hot Springs, you cross a bridge and see where the water exits the earth. The water is approximately degrees Celsius (122 degs. F). There is a small waterfall that brings the wonderful liquid to the rocky pools below, and to a comfortable bathing temperature. From my shower, I could view the mouth of the inlet and the bay. Heaven on earth! Our first trip to the springs, we had the entire place to ourselves for over and hour. As we hiked back to the dock we met over 20 people heading in to bathe. Being morning people does have it's perks!


In the afternoon, Dave and I took the AquaSport out to the reef to fish. We explored the rocks coves to the south of the hot springs. We caught (and released) a few small sole, but nothing to write home about. We headed to the mouth of Hot Springs Cove, alongside the reef and no sooner had we got a line down, we were pulling up fish! It was one of the finest fishing trips that I have experienced. At the finale, Dave decided that he wanted to get the video camera out and make a fishing documentary. I was to show the world how easy it is to catch fish. In short order, while the tape was roling, I landed one rockfish...then the big Daddy Black Sea Bass. This guy was a MONSTER! I was afraid to hold him up for the camera, for fear he'd take my arm off! When I had pulled him into the boat he had coughed up a large herring which he had inhaled whole!


Upon our return to the Sea Crest - preparing to clean our haul - a couple from a sailboat (Luna), at anchor nearby, kayaked over. We spent the evening with Bob & Kris. They brought over beverages, salad, and an assortment of goodies for hamburgers. We fired up the grill and pulled out a package of buffalo burger. A thoroughly enjoyable day, and evening! Cruisers, whether by sail or power, are intriguing folks...we have met some amazing people on this trip, in the most remote of locations.


The following morning, we made our pilgrimage to the Hot Springs at 7 am. However, on this occasion, there were people who arrived before us . We met a charming family, who shared our pool with us, David, Jeff and Emily. This place had become an annual retreat for their family reunion.


We had spent several glorious days in Hot Springs Cove, and hated to leave this little slice of heaven, but the call to explore beckons...

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