Bamfield BC

22 - 28 August 2010

Bamfield has been my favorite village that we have happened across on our journey. It is touted as the Venice of Vancouver Island, and for good reason. The towns "main street" is the inlet waterway that divides the east and west sides of the village. There are no roads connecting the two halves, everyone putts back and forth across the waterway in every conceivable floating contraption imaginable. We tied up at the public dock for most of our stay in Bamfield. A couple floated their dock over to the wharf to load it with lumber to bring across the waterway. A young firl peddled her hydrobike up alongside of us. A bicycle that floats! The water taxi ferried backpackers, lodgers, packages and pets, back and forth across the main street. A sight to watch.

The houses and shops on the west side use a boardwalk along the waterfront as the main roadway, although there were gravel roads leading to homes on the hillside, but these roads were more of a suggestion of a road. Any vehicles on that side of the town had to be floated over by a car hauler - we saw several going back and forth during our stay.

Matilda and I hiked to Brady Beach one morning while Dave went out fishing. We followed the boardwalk up to one of the gravel roads and just followed the sign posts. It wasn't a long hike but meandered over the hill to the west side which faced the Trevor Channel. We packed a picnic breakfast for our trek. It was a wonderful spot, full of seashells and sea glass. It was a morning well spent. We med a local couple on our outing - the resident nurse that has worked at the medical clinic for 25 years. On our way back to the dock, where Dave was to pick us up, we walked along the boardwalk where there stood quaint shops, cottages and even the local cat house! A small village for cats! Matilda enjoyed that immensely!


The salmon hadn't really started their run into Port Alberni yet. A few folks snagged a few, but most had been caught off the oast in the ocean and not in the Sound. On our trip back to Ucluelet we ventured approximately 32 miles offshore where Dave was able to catch 2 very nice King Salmon in short order!

To Poetts Nook

12 - 21 August 2010

On our first day out, we traveled leisurely to the Pinkertons (inside the Barkley). We motored around the islands insearch of the perfect anchorage, however the ones that piqued our interest were taken. We crossed the passage to Nettle Island, which is a "U" shaped island and found a comfy anchorage within the "U" of the island. Dave crabbed, while I gathered oysters from the shore and rowed around the small islets. A couple of curious racoons eyed me from the rock ledge that they were sitting on.

We had the cove to ourselves until nightfall, when another trawler joined us. They left at first light. We left shortly afterwards...Dave was anxious to hit fishing territory and to do more exploring.

From Nettle Island we traveled the Imperial Eagle Channel towards Fleming Island. Fleming Island (and Tzartus Island, which is adjacent) are known for their sea caves. Some of the caves can be accessed by small boat or kayaks, others are higher up on the shore. Some of these caves are burial grounds for the native people who lived on the islands in an earlier age. Stories tell of spelunkers exploring caves and finding the remains of these earlier people. After finding a sevure anchorage at Poetts Nook, we took the AquaSport through Robbers Passage and explored the sea caves on the southwestern side of Tzartus Island and the western side of Fleming Island. The caves that I had wished to explore by land were difficult to reach by the AquaSort, so I had to accept the view from the water's edge. Dave dropped Matilda and I off at a secluded beach to get some "land time" while he went fishing. We collected shells and looked for moon snails. We had the beach, and perhaps the whole island to ourselves...there was not a single footprint to be found, save our own.

Poetts Nook is a haven for the boaters that travel from around Vancouver Island (and the States). It caters to small fishing boats and RVers that trailer their vehicles from Port Alberni over 50 miles of gravel logging road. It is a destination spot for sports fishermen (and women). We anchored at the head of the bay and called Poetts Nook home for about a week.

Tilly and I made several excursions to shore where we found a plethora of pickleweed growing in the salt marsh. I collected several batches, some to eat fresh and the rest I canned. Dave went fishing on several occasions, bringing home ling cod, bass, spotted shrimp and crab. We have eatten quite well on our little adventure.

Ucluelet - Part II

5 - 11 August 2010

Our journey to Ucluelet was simple and straight forward. We followed the northwest shore of Vancouver Island southwest to Ucluelet inlet. We originally anchored in the same location as before, however after several days at anchor we were sitting in our salon, listening to an audiobook (an Agatha Christie mystery, I believe), when I happened to look up and notice that objects on shore (as well as, other boats) didn't seem to be where I had last seen them. We were dragging anchor and the winds and current were carrying us farther into the inlet and closer to a dock and other boats. We started up the engines, pulled up the anchor, and found a solitary location on the norhtern shore of the inlet. It was a much better anchorage, boat traffic in and out of the marina and across the inlet was minimized here. We also had an enjoyabley entertaining neighbor...BooBoo, a black bear that typically would grace us with his presence several times a day. Wildlife tour groups would motor by in boats when BooBoo was out, and a few crab fishermen would putt by to check their pots, but otherwise it was a very private anchorage with a good muddy bottom.

Dave took the AquaSport out to the ocean to go fishing. Matilda and I held down the fort, keeping BooBoo company. Dave arrived early in the afternoon with a very nice halibut for my birthday dinner. What a delicious treat! We had also been quite successful in the crab department, so enjoyed several meals of that, as well. Our next stop was the Pinkertons and the inner islands that make up the group of islands known as The Broken Group.

The Pipestem Revisited

3 - 5 August 2010

We spent the month of August exploring the Barkley Sound. Unfortunately, wifi was not available (or was terribly expensive) at most of the locations that we visited, so I am finally playing "catch up".

After our time at Effingham Bay we trekked back to the Pipestem in a light fog. Regardless of the fog, we were able to spot whales as we left Effingham Bay. Our hope was to find sunshine the further inland that we traveled...and we did! We also found that our delightful anchorage that we had on our last visit was awating our return. We quickly set anchor and stern tied to shore to relax in the sunshine for the remainder of the day. The following morning, at low tide, I rowed the tender to the point at the head of our anchorage and collected oysters and pickleweed (my new favorite wild veggie). I felt like I was being watched as I worked, and I was...a bald eagle, perched on a limb above me - scrutinized my every move. In the afternoon, at high tide, Dave and I took the AquaSport up to Lucky Creek to view the waterfalls. This time I had my camera with me so was able to take photos. The next day, Dave made a scuba dive - for fun. He was hoping to find sea cucumbers and urchins, but alas, there wer none to be found in our little cove.

Back to the Barkley!

Effingham Bay - 31 July/2 August 2010

After a short jaunt back to the States to conduct business and reprovision, we are back in the Barkleys! I feel like we have come home! On our return the whales greeted us. This time around I was actually able to photograph them! Fishing boats were a plenty...all the way up from the Port of San Juan. Hopefully that is an auspicious sign for us and our fishing endeavors.

There were 9 boats at anchor in Effingham Bay, with room for many more. By nightfall the number increased to 14. We were unable to secure the prime spot in the bay's "thumb" (were the trailhead to the ancient Indian Village is), but were close enough to row to it. After a long day of travel - we rested. On the following day I ventured to shore to visit the village grounds.

As I rowed towards the trailhead, I noticed a DeFever that hailed from none other than Florence, Oregon (my home town). The owners of the vessel were on their aft deck, so I rowed over to chat with them. Chris and Dave. Of course they had heard of the Braley's...they originally were from Reedsport and had known the Prozialeck name, as well. Time to break out in "it's a small world after all"!

The trail is uniquely marked. No signs or placards - just debris. A crab float tied to a tree here, an old shoe overturned on a sick there. It was a fun hike, not long, but winding and rugged. The trail wound through a dense old growth forest to the eastern shore of Effingham Island. It is hard to put the village site into accurate words. There are no buildings or foundations to be seen. Rather, the village is "felt". Just off of the beach, nestled amoungst the trees, there are areas of ground that are flat. A berm runs behind the open spaces, which is were the villagers of thousands of years ago, placed their molusk shells. this is now covered in a dense moss. I found batches of hedge nettle and mustard greens which resembles a garden left to its own devices. And while walking the grounds I could smell mint, but was never able to place its source, though it was rather strong. The guidebook mentioned that the village had an "eerie" feeling, although I would say that it had a more mystically haunted feel.

After my exploration of the village. I wandered down to the shore. The cove was encompassed by rocks with manificent tidepools. I could fully understand why its earlier inhabitants had chosen the spot. Closer into shore there were boulders. I hopped from boulder to boulder and found pockets of sand that was covered in small sea shells. I have never seen such a bounty of color and variety on a West Coast beach. I had brought a baggie to collect "treasures'. After an hour or so, engrossed in my task, i began the trek home.

The Barkley Sound

20 - 24 July 2010

Fog has been infiltrating the inlets and bays. Most of it has burned off by late afternoon, but it makes traveling the inside passages and inlets a bit treacherous. We opted to head out to sea. Visibility was at best 3 miles and at worse 1/2 mile, but still preferable to what we could see on the shore - like a shroud hanging over the land. Seas were calm with very little wind as we made our way to the Barkley. The whales decided to travel along with us on this trip, as well. I thought that a rock pinnacle was off our port side, when it was a whale spy-hopping. Then along our starboard side - right NEXT to us - a giant humpback came out of the water. We could see his entire head and back out of the water. The fog was a blessing! We would have missed it all had the skies been clear...

We decided to skip the city of Tofino, a good sized town on the Central Vancouver Coast, and head to the port town of Ucluelet (pronounced You-Clue-Let) on the north end of the Barkley sound. We made for Spring Cove, at the mouth of the inlet. Several homes dotted the shoreline, but it was still quite private. Dave ventured into town and the marina the next morning, and came back to pull up anchor and resettle at the end of the inlet, across from the marina. Once we were re-anchored, I noticed that our friends from Hot Springs Cove (Bob & Kris) were anchored off our starboard bow. They putted over in their tender and kidnapped me for a hike to Amphitrite Point. It was an enjoyable walk with views of the rock infested shoreline, although the fog was drifting in and out of the point, the trip was a beautiful one. The change from being on the boat to being on land seems to make land all the more precious to me. We planned to meet up at Pipestem Inlet the next day for Oysterpalooza. An adventure of oyster gathering, and oyster feasting...

We pulled anchor early the following morning and headed into the northern corner of the Barkley Sound. It was foggy along the outlying coastline, but inland the sun shone bright. We found a snug cove at the mouth of the Pipestem Inlet and set anchor. I rowed the tender to shore with our stern line and tied it to a tree. We had 2 wonderfully restful nights at anchor. There were a few sailboats across the cove from us, but it was a very private and serene little cove. The Luna arrived later in the afternoon, and the four of us set out to explore Lucky Creek. The creek meanders through meadows and wood to a storybook waterfall. I climbed u[ the rock face of the lower fall to see the pools above, then scurried back down the rocks and into the boat. The trip can only be made at high tide (or you will hit bottom in the shallower sections of the stream). We made it out successfully and then headed up the Pipestem into a small lagoon that was awash in oysters! We filled our buckets with oysters, and I filled my sack full of pickleweed (which I found on the shore), and set off to prepare our feast. the party was held on the Luna; a magnificent 47 foot sailboat. I was amazed at the utilization of space that she had. A wonderfully comfortable home. Another great evening spent with friends...thank you, Bob & Kris for your hospitality.

The following day we headed towards the Broken Group; an assortment of islands in the center of the Barkley. The fog thickened as we journeyed down the channel. Thank goodness for chartplotters and GPS!!! We entered Effingham Island from the southwesterly side to bypass the multitude of rocks from the lee side. Not exactly and enjoyable day on the water - traveling through fog is not one of my favorite things - a bit disorienting, but we made it to the island to find the sun breaking through and the fog lifting. We found a tidy nook to anchor in at Effingham Bay and stern tied to the shore. I thing that Dave just likes to watch me row and scurry up and down the rock ledges...A comfortable anchorage with an outstanding view of the sunset.

There is much in the Barkley that we wish to come back to explore, but duty calls and we must return to the states to attend to business. Afterwards it is our hope to return and remain for the summer. There are so many things tucked away in each and every corner of this great island. One could spend the rest of their lives exploring its gems and never tire of it.

Hot Springs Cove

17 - 20 July 2010

After having a thoroughly enjoyable stay in Tahsis, we ventured out to the mouth of the sound to Friendly Cove. It was a peaceful morning as we cruised the passage heading back towards the Pacific Ocean. Friendly Cove was reported to have good anchorage. We arrived in the late morning and anchored. Tilly and I rowed the tender to shore. There was a nice beach to walk, trails around the head, and an old Catholic Church and native Indian graveyard to explore. the tide was changing, so I didn't want to leave our dinghy unattended on the beach for too long, so we headed back to the Sea Crest after an hour and a half or so. Dave had listened to the weather report while we were gone and the winds were to pick up in the evening. We were just a half days run from Hot Springs Cove, with better protection from the elements there. We pulled up anchor and headed out into the bay.

We traveled in good company. There were several pods of whales that we sited on our way to the Hot Springs. They put on a good show for us.

Hot Springs Cove has been a special treat for boaters. Before the intoduction of modern tranportation to the area (water taxis and sea planes from the city of Tofino, BC) the only folks who took of the pleasures of the baths were local villagers and traveling mariners. Regardless of its current "tourist" status, the Hot Springs are a remarkably pristine and sacred spot. We made several trips in to luxuriate in the waters. The hike is approximately 2 km of boardwalk - with quite a few steps. The trail traverses an old growth forest, and the trees are as much a joy to take in as the baths themselves.

As one enters the Hot Springs, you cross a bridge and see where the water exits the earth. The water is approximately degrees Celsius (122 degs. F). There is a small waterfall that brings the wonderful liquid to the rocky pools below, and to a comfortable bathing temperature. From my shower, I could view the mouth of the inlet and the bay. Heaven on earth! Our first trip to the springs, we had the entire place to ourselves for over and hour. As we hiked back to the dock we met over 20 people heading in to bathe. Being morning people does have it's perks!

In the afternoon, Dave and I took the AquaSport out to the reef to fish. We explored the rocks coves to the south of the hot springs. We caught (and released) a few small sole, but nothing to write home about. We headed to the mouth of Hot Springs Cove, alongside the reef and no sooner had we got a line down, we were pulling up fish! It was one of the finest fishing trips that I have experienced. At the finale, Dave decided that he wanted to get the video camera out and make a fishing documentary. I was to show the world how easy it is to catch fish. In short order, while the tape was roling, I landed one rockfish...then the big Daddy Black Sea Bass. This guy was a MONSTER! I was afraid to hold him up for the camera, for fear he'd take my arm off! When I had pulled him into the boat he had coughed up a large herring which he had inhaled whole!

Upon our return to the Sea Crest - preparing to clean our haul - a couple from a sailboat (Luna), at anchor nearby, kayaked over. We spent the evening with Bob & Kris. They brought over beverages, salad, and an assortment of goodies for hamburgers. We fired up the grill and pulled out a package of buffalo burger. A thoroughly enjoyable day, and evening! Cruisers, whether by sail or power, are intriguing folks...we have met some amazing people on this trip, in the most remote of locations.

The following morning, we made our pilgrimage to the Hot Springs at 7 am. However, on this occasion, there were people who arrived before us . We met a charming family, who shared our pool with us, David, Jeff and Emily. This place had become an annual retreat for their family reunion.

We had spent several glorious days in Hot Springs Cove, and hated to leave this little slice of heaven, but the call to explore beckons...