Kyuquot Sound - Tahsis

14 -16 July 2010

We left our home in Browning Inlet today. The early morning weather report called for a calm morning, we watched a neighboring sailboat down the inlet pull up anchor and head out, and we followed suit. The ocean pushed us southwards towards the Kyuquot Sound and we acquiesced.

The west side of Vancouver Island is extremely rugged and isolated. There are few towns here. No cell phone towers, and roads are unheard of (and not seen, either). The coastline is broken into segments by large bays and inlets that seem to be around every point. We see boats...lots of boats, large and small. The small ones are trailered from the east side of the island by sportsfishermen. Sailboats dot the waterways. They are more like us in their tastes. They travel slowly and prefer anchoring in scenic coves to the hub-bub of a marina. Yachts, both large and small, show themselves in our remote anchorages when the weather becomes less than amiable.

We anchored in Queens's Cove just at the entrance to Esperanza Inlet. There are small houses on the shore (that we later learn belong to a fishing camp), but they are vacant. It was a quiet night. We swayed on the hook a bit in the wind, but our anchor held firm. The morning is foggy and calm. I had never imagined that I would ever see a tidal waterfall, but here it is! When we had pulled into the cove at high tide, the top of the waterfall was equal to that of our cove. At low water it all came tumbling down...We plan to venture further into the inlet, which traverses behind Nootka Island, saving us a trip out to open water for a time. There are a few small towns inside the passage so our hope is to find civilization...catch up on business and let the world know that we are alive and well. We found a simple civilization here in Tahsis. And yet, we are still on the fringe...This is the most delightful place I believe that I have ever been to! Altho the town has dwindled from 3000 residents to a mere 300. It still has a culture and European flare all it's own. The winds had come down from the mountains to the east our first day in...then from the coast (west)...now there is a calm. Of all of the marina's that we have stopped in from our travels from southern California...this is hands down my favorite! (sorry Santa Barbara...)

Quatsino Sound - Browning Inlet

7 - 14 July 2010

We left the sanctuary of Sea Otter Cove early in the morning to venture back out into the great Pacific Ocean. However, today's journey was much more accomodating. The winds were moderate and the sea was at our back...we had only about 20 nautical miles to travel to reach our destination of Quatsino Sound. If you like remote wilderness with absolutely NO prresumption of civilization...you will LOVE it here! Our journey along the coastline was stressfree (although, I was still feeling a bit peeky). The land is old. You can tell that the land is old by the shape of her hills...they are not full or jagged...they are rounded and worn down (like most good women!) But they are a lovely site to behold. there is life there...as we entered the Quatsino Sound, and rounded the lighthouse, we saw several humback whales breach...flukes waving majestically in the air as they descended. A brilliant dislay - unfortunately, my photography skills are not so brilliant.

Within a 45 minute period, besides whale there were sea otters, seals, eagles soaring overhead and huge fish jumping out of the sea! We followed Browning Inlet, which is more like a riverboat cruise than an ocean voyage. A svelte waterway that meanders into the wilderness. There we found the perfect anchorage; a small cove within the inlet. By first light, a black bear was spotted on the opposite shore. During our stay at Browning Inlet, it would be our morning ritual to watch the black bears lumber upon the shore: overturning rocks, looking for tasty tidbits, and continue on their way.

On our first day in Browning Inlet we were in the full throws of summer...a slight breeze, 85 desgres (90+ in our salon)...a glorious day. Matilda and I made several excursions to shore and explored our little cove. The following day was less brillian, but as thoroughly enjoyable. I rowed our tender to a low tide to collect littleneck clams (steamer clams)...hard work, but well worth the the effort. Afterwards, it was time to replenish our stores...I needed yogurt and more bread, so it became yogurt and bread making day...as it began to sprinkle outside, I knew that the timing was perfect!

A storm was moving in...the skies have clouded over and reports are that the winds will be increasing. We are snug in our private cove, and all is well. There are lots of places to explore in the Quatsino Sound, so all is not lost...I had often heard the phrase "this is God's Country", referring to the Oregon region, but I beg to differ, after this journey I now know that THIS IS GOD'S COUNTRY! Perhaps, God is a Canadian, eh?

Go West!!!

6 July 2010

Another impromtu adventure out at sea...the plan was (originally) that we were to cross the Queen Charlotte Sound early in the am to end up at Rivers Inlet (or nearby). However, plans DO change...

Instead we followed the north end of Vancouver Island all the way around from east to west. A totally isolated part of the island...no towns...no homes...nothing! I like it! Now...in our Waggoner's Guidebook they tell of making the trek, but the wife had the good sense to fly home before it started and let here "fool" husband do the trip with his buddies (although, from the guidebook, it sounds like they had the time of their lives). If I had only known what kind of ride I was in for!!! The Goletas Channel was beautiful! We passed Duval Island (not spelled the familieal way, but close)...great spot out of Port Hardy. From the boat, while cruising by, I could see Indian Pictographs on the rock cliffs. We saw loads of minkie whales...a couple of them played alongside the bow of the boat as we cruised by. Another day in paradise, until we left the Goletas Channel and entered into the Queen Charlotte Sound as it meets the Pacific Ocean (or the Big PO, as I now lovingly refer to it - cause it really PISSES ME OFF sometimes!)

Destruction Island revisited...only thins time we had our engines, and this was part of the "plan". Shit (I say "shit" instead of "belongings" or "stuff" only because after a second occurrence I feel that I am obliged!) hurtling off the counters, pictures flying past. As I tried to hold the refridge in place, the toaster oven, and keep 3 cabinet doors from swinging open and dislodge their contents, while consoling Matilda and keeping down my stomachs contents (razor clams, rice and green beans, in case you were wondering). I then knew that Tilly and I were on another amazing adventure! Dave seems to be in his glory when the Sea Crest is hurtling at ungodly angles to the sea...beating over the bow...and pretty much putting the rest of us into extreme misery and discomfort!

We passed Cape Scott...and then were in a following sea (when the sea is pushing you from behind)...with 30 knot winds it was still a bumpy rid, but we were nearing a safe haven. In San Josef Bay there were 3 commercial boats at anchor. There is a channel just inside the bay...narrow band rocky, but the guidebooks all claim that a treasure is hidden just inside. We pulled the AquaSport to our starboard side and proceeded to find the illustrious Sea Otter Cove. Once in the channel there is a small bay with rocks jutting out at either side of the entrance to the Cove. We put trust in our Garmin and our depth sounder and headed in...There are 4 bouys available for pleasure craft to tie off to, inside Sea Otter Cove. When we arrived the cove was empty...there are not buildings, no power lines...no cell towers...nada! A very remote and sacred place. Tying to the bouy in a 30+ knot headwind was a bit of a challenge, but was worth the struggle. For the night was restful and safe.

The next morning, Mtilda and I rowed our tender to the southern shore. I am happy to report that there really are sea otters in Sea Otter Cove! We enjoyed watching them play as we rowed to shore. Matilda enjoyed her potty time, and got to run free on the beach. While I tide pooled and scouted for edible plants along the bank. I wa able to scrounge some young dandelion greens and miners lettuce for salad, some limpets as an appetizer (the china hat shells that you often see on the rocks in tidepools), and some bullwhip kelp...I whipped myself up a delectable midday feast!

Our cove was warm and sunny...a perfect day for laundry and sunbathing au natural. It is amazing how wonderful it is to be in isolated places, knowing that you can just "be". Without fear, without judgement, without others...you are in your own private place within yourself...I liken it to the feeling that you get in a bath or hot tub alone. That was the feeling that I had today. A seaplane flew over, but at a great distance...the world was mine alone.

By afternoon, our little oasis became a popular anchorage spot and the spell was broken...but for that one moment it was mine to savor. Yesterdays trials and discomforts are long since past...this sid of the Island is HEAVEN!!!

Port McNeill, BC

4 - 5 July 2010

We left Port Harvey early on the 4th in a light fog. Visibility was approximately 2 - 3 miles, and the Johnstone Straights is no more than 3 miles across at its widest part, so we were not deterred. Again the ebb was not assisting us in gaining the speeds we would have liked to make, but we enjoyed the ride all the same.

We spotted orca along the way. The photos don't seem to give the occasion justice, however.

Halfway through the days travels we were passed on our port side by a Norwegian Cruise Line ship, the Norwegian Star...beautiful vessel. It was entertaining, listening to the radio communication between the ship's crew and an oncoming sailboat. Felt like a bit of a voyeur!

Near the end of Johnstone Straight we opted to go through Blackney Pass and the myriad of small islands there. Several sailboats were cruising in the area and we watched porpoises swim alongside the bow of one of them.

Our original plan was to pull into the marina at Alert Bay on Cormorant Island. We side tied the AquaSport to our port side (we are all set up for her to be on our starboard), it was a bit inconvenient, changing all of our dock lines, fenders, etc. When we entered the marina the winds picked up, making docking a bit TOO challenging! After several attempts, we realized that this was not the place for us! We backed out and went to "plan B" - Port McNeill less than an hour away.

Port McNeill is a small town, but with a large bay and marine facilities. There is a ferry terminal and sea planes make hourly trips in and out of the harbor. Anchorage is plentiful and secure across the bay from the marina. With the strong winds, the Sea Crest rocked quite abit, but all-in-all, a very peaceful and restive stop. We had only 2 fellow boaters anchored nearby; a trawler and a chinese junk.

We are planning to head out in the morning...hoping to beat the winds!

Port Harvey

3 July 2010

They say that "time and tide wait for no man", so first thing in the am we warmed up the engines and proceeded to haul up our anchor. In this anchorage, we had beenwell set, so had to reconnoiter the boat in order to hoist the bugger out of its wedge...but all was well. We left at a slick tide, right before the ebb. We had expected to ride the current and pick up good speed with the ebb, but were rather disappointed. Our average speed was only a tawdry 7.4 knots (approx). The views (as always) were breathtaking...mountain peaks both east and west of us (also at our back). It was smooth cruising.

We saw an old ferry boat along the way, anchored and re-commissioned as a modern logging camp. The equipment can be transported where the vehicles had originally driven in...the ship was large enough to house an entire crew quite comfortably. We were impressed by the operation!

The tide was beginning to change as we neared the Havannah Channel towards Port Harvey, so we took the opportunity to settle in for the afternoon. The Waggoneer Guide mentioned that a new marina had been established last year and that there were several anchorages in the area. That was good enough for us! It was a short distance in from the Straight. We found a suitable spot behind Range Island. Tilly and I rowed our small hard-bottomed inflatable boat to the little island for her to have a potty break, while Dave crabbed off of our stern deck (another crab line fiasco). Tilly and I returned to find that our own crab line had gotten attached to our props while the boat had spun on the anchor! I put on my swimsuit and grabbed my scuba mask with the idea that I could somhow free the line...I HATE swimming! The water was freezing and my lung capacity not up to the task. I once again assisted Dave in donning his wet suit and scuba gear for another dive. How people do this boating thing without dive gear is beyond me!?! In short order he had removed the line, and then he just dived for the helluvit! Afterwards we took the AquaSport into the marina to visit the store (and the people)...nice to get out every now and again...

We enjoyed a delectible supper of lingcod and rockfish, stuffing, salad and green beans...bette than Thanksgiving! It's only 7:30 pm, but I am bushed...it's been a long, but enjoyable day.

As I write this, I look out to the Johnstone Straight and watch a sailboat come into the inlet...behind it is a cruise ship, heading southeast...that ship is on the same journey, but misses all of the "nooks and crannies" that is the most amazing part of this trip. I am so grateful to be able to explore those special places...

Blind Channel - Off Bowland Island

2 July 2010

The tides and currents were in our favor so we set off towards the Seymour Narrows and the Johnstone Straits. In these parts, tides and currents are everything! Especially when you only do 8 knots! If the current is running 16 knots in the opposite direction, you are going nowhere fast!

We cruised through the Seymour Rapids, quite calmly...the Sea Crest just trudged along nonchalantly. There are few words to describe the rugged and majestic beauty of this part of the world...and, I am afraid, that my photos won't even pay them the homage that they are due. As we left the city life of Campbell River, within a few miles we were in wilderness. We bypassed the loop through the Desolation Sound and made straight for Johnstone. It is July and the mountain peaks are still snow covered. They seem to climb right from the waters edge (and they do!). Our depth sounder reaches to 600 ft., and the waters beneath us were far deeper!

The current was working against us and the winds had increased, so we began looking or anchorage. There are many channels tha bronch off of the Johnstone Straits. We took Mayne Passage up to the Blind Channel Marina; tied up to the fuel dock and resupplied. This is a beautiful resort with full service marina, store, fuel dock,lodgings, sea pleaned transport, restaurant...the works! We hit the store, filled up our water tanks (with some "high quality H2O - says the waterboy, Bobbie Bouchet), topped off the fuel tanks and headed around the corner to find anchorage. And did we ever find it! Our own little oasis, tucked away behind a few small islets. Great anchorage...all to ourselves...I was even so bold as to use our solar shower, full-monty-style, on our aft deck without fear of a single soul peeking! It was heavenly!

Campbell River...Still

30 June 2010

We are still at Campbell River, off of Quadra Island. It has been a pleasant anchorage, although our anchor has slipped several times, and has given me several "firsthand" lessons in captaining our vessel and setting the anchor on my own. Campbell River is touted as the "salmon fishing capital of the world", so I thing that Dave has made it a personal challenge to either prove thme right or wrong. So far, we have soon neither hide nor hair of the ellusive salmony creatures. Loads of cod and rockfish...a huge halibut got away, but no salmon...Seiku, WA still has our heart! Tilly and I went out with Dave on one such fishing excursion. It was a windy, overcast morning as the tide was turning. A lumpy ride in the AquaSport, and a bit chilly; not all to my liking... The next few trips Dave decided to leave us at home! Not so much for our pleasure and enjoyment, but rather, to make sure that the anchor held fast at the tide change. It was a good thing, too! On one occasion the anchor had slipped and we had drifted about 100 ft. that was my first experience at reseeting the anchor on my own. A bit daunting at first, but for me, a successful experience! We don't learn quite so much form listening and watching others, as we do by esperienceing things first hand.

My time on the boat has given me more opportunity to work on the brightwork (refinishing the woodwork and railings). It is a slow process - first stripping the old finish, treating the wood, lightly sanding, staining and finally varnishing - however, I find it an enjoyable pastime, and I am please with the results. I wish that I had the carpentry, electrical and plumbing knowledge of Dave. There are many tasks that need to be completed, and with proper skill, I would love the chance to finish them. Dave's "honey-do" list is constantly growing.

While working on my projects I have had opportunity to enjoy the wildlife here. One morning, a troupe of sea otters scmpered from the rocks into the water. I got the pleasure of frolicking and playing along the shore vicariously through them. Several bald eagles reside on Stagg Is. (the small island to the west of us). the perch on the grayed snag overlooking the creatures below. While out on the deck, a bird that I believe is a kingfisher, landed on the rail...spoke something to me (or chastised me) and then flew off.